Peru: More Than Just Macchu Picchu

Amazingly beautiful, wonderfully diverse, incredibly far yet strangely familiar – that is what comes to mind when I look back on my summer getaway in Peru. No amount of research and reading before the trip could have prepared me for what I was about to see. And so after three weeks of exploring what the country has to offer, I feel an obligation to share what I have seen, felt, and experienced. After all not many Filipinos get to be on that far side of the world(I was the first Filipino most hostels and foreigners encountered). Join me as I revisit my first South American experience in Peru.

Lima: First look at Peru
I entered Peru via Lima after a total of thirty hours in the air (plus a 6 hour-layover) to find that some parts of the city were strangely like Manila. The crazy drivers and car-filled roads made me feel like I had left home and then went back. Aside from that feeling of familiarity I will never forget Lima for its coastal fog which would descend early in the morning and then eventually clear up to reveal vibrantly blue skies in the summer. The afternoons would be a perfect time to go get a view of the Pacific Ocean from the cliffs of Miraflores as you take a walk along El Parque del Amor. Here you can catch a breathtaking sunset view, a sight of oranges, yellows, and reds which Lima is known for. The historic centre is also one of the noteworthy spots to be visited. I would have wanted to see more of it as I only drove by the area on my way to the airport. It looks to be filled with very interesting architecture that is worth a visit.

Aside from the scenery one thing I will never forget about Lima is the food. As a self-proclaimed foodie I did not miss the chance to try some ceviche, one of the country’s prized dishes which is the Peruvian equivalent of our 'kinilaw'. Some items on the menu looked very familiar, such as the escabeche and bistek. If you are up for something rich a plate of aji de gallina (chicken with creamy pepper sauce) will satisfy your craving. You also need to have the fresh trucha, trout fried to delicious perfection. Most dishes are accompanied by a side of rice, potatoes, corn, or two out of those three so it’s best to put aside your fear of carbs, if you have such.


Most people treat Lima as nothing but an entry point into the country, but as I have discovered it has a lot to offer which leaves much to be explored.

Huacachina: A desert oasis
Need I say more about Huacachina? The word oasis perfectly describes exactly what it is. Imagine tall, endless sand dunes, where you can sandboard and take thrilling buggy rides. And then think of a green lagoon right in the middle of all that sand. I had never seen such a sight until that point and so I was thoroughly in awe. It was such an incredible view to behold.

Getting there is just as remarkable. As soon as you get to the outskirts of Lima the landscape starts to change immediately. The bustling city becomes endless stretches of sand and once in a while you catch glimpses of the coast. The white scenery is occasionally peppered with patches of vineyards. Several hundred feet of sand on both sides of the road prepare to greet and amaze as you enter the tiny village.

If you ever find yourself in Huacachina, go up the dunes and stare at the wide expanse of space; envelop yourself with the feeling of nothingness. Catching the late afternoon sun as it sets will surely give you a memory you will not soon forget.

Arequipa: Anything but boring
Imagine cobblestone streets teeming with people, quaint eateries filled with delicious goodies, shops selling colorful Peruvian souvenirs and old churches whose walls have stood the test of time. I must say Arequipa is my favorite stop throughout the whole Peruvian adventure. There is never a shortage of things to see, do, and eat. The Plaza de Armas (main plaza) in front of the city cathedral is filled with people (and pigeons). Night life is bustling and very exciting. You can do a pub crawl and get a good headstart as their ‘happy hour’ starts as early as 7:30 in the evening and lasts up until midnight! Hot and spicy grilled skewered meats called anticuchos in between bar stops make for a good snack especially on a chilly night. And when you’ve had your fill of alcohol make sure you salsa the night away. In the morning when you’re hung over, just have more food-empanadas, pollo milanesa, and tamales, to name a few. A view of the snow-capped El Misti volcano will surely give you the energy to take on a new day.

Puno & Lake Titicaca: A Natural High
Again, this is one road trip I will never forget. Travelling to Puno from Arequipa was more than just a journey. The abundance of mountains, alpacas, and vicunas kept my eyes open. There is not much to see in the sleepy town of Puno, but it was here that I had my first of taste of chifa, a Peruvian permutation of Chinese food. It’s quite fascinating and unusual to be in South America, eating food from my side of the world.

I entered the city of Puno at night and so the morning view of Lake Titicaca outside the bus terminal hostel window was my first proper introduction to the place. Literally the highest point of my trip at more than 3,800 meters above sea level, I am glad I did not get a bout of altitude sickness. The highest navigable lake, Lago del Titicaca, is known not only for its exceptional elevation but also for the man-made islands on it. Stepping on the Uros floating islands, made solely of stacked reeds, is a unique experience. You can stay on one of the islands overnight if you want to, given the weather permits it.

Cusco: More than just a stop to Machu Picchu
Here is where it gets more touristy, since the goal of most visitors to Peru is to see Macchu Picchu. This does not come as a surprise because Cusco is usually the jumpoff point to this ancient wonder. But in spite of this the town’s charm did not fail to capture me. Going to the Mercado Central de San Pedro for a hearty breakfast of chicken soup was one of my staples while I was there. Here in the bustling market you will find an assortment of cheeses, breads, fruits, vegetables, souvenirs, meats, and just about anything that can interest you. Going away from the main square will lead you to little side streets filled with little artisan shops, bakeries and restaurants. If the weather gets too cold you can warm up by getting yourself a comfy alpaca wool sweater, hat, or scarf which are available everywhere.

The nearby areas of Moray and Maras are not to be missed. The green circular terraces of Moray, believed to be an ancient agricultural experiment station, is a proof of Incan ingenuity and skill. The stories and legends behind this archaeological site are just as interesting. The terraced salt fields of Maras are not to be missed. As we were approaching them the view of the place already took my breath away. Against a backdrop of green and red from the mountains and blue from the skies is an intricate layout of white salt evaporation ponds that have been used since Inca times. Magnificent should suffice to describe the landscape.

Final stop: Macchu Picchu
Getting there can be as easy or difficult as you want it to be. I had no choice but to take the cheaper, ergo more taxing journey to Macchu Picchu which involved a long ride on treacherous cliffside roads and then a hike along a railroad and into the lovely forest to make it to Aguas Calientes. I was treated to a great view of mountains, rivers, and a dusky sky. It’s not as scary as it all seems; you have fellow tourists to while away the time and make the task seem less daunting. The following day after hiking for almost two hours starting 4:30 a.m. from Aguas Calientes I made it in time for sunrise at Macchu Picchu and I must say, it made me tear up. First, it was out of exhaustion. Second, they indicated in my ticket I was Canadian so that’s one less Filipino on the already short list of Filipinos on their tally. And third, I still could not believe I was on the other side of the world, facing this ancient creation that still stands today. Not too many people get that chance and for that I was overcome with a sense of gratefulness. I spent a good length of time at what they call the guardhouse, where the postcard photos of Macchu Picchu are taken. Here I just fixed my eyes on the stone structures, the mountains and rivers, trying to take in as much as I can knowing that as soon as I leave everything would be a memory.

For me Peru is a great way to start discovering South America. If it is a sneek peak into what else is there on the continent then I am in, long plane rides, jetlag, language barrier and all. The diversity and beauty is certainly something I will never forget for the rest of my life.

Day 1: Takeoff

Armed with excitement and anticipation I boarded on the plane to Amsterdam that Friday night. After two years, I was going back to the continent that is subject to my current infatuation: Europe. I was lucky to have a very considerate couple sitting next to me. They were the perfect plane seatmates - quiet and not overly-friendly. Even with this advantage I had a hard time sleeping. Maybe it was the excitement. Maybe it was the cramped economy seat space. Or the in-flight entertainment choices. I would doze off for minutes that seemed like hours and wake up for meals and parts of the depressing but great movie My Week With Marilyn. Not even airline food or the film could dampen my spirits.


Sometimes when I opened my eyes and looked outside, I would see what appeared to be a sunrise... or was it a sunset? I lost all orientation of time and space while inside the pressurized interior. It was a confusing but refreshing feeling as well, like you're in limbo just floating. You're literally and figuratively suspended in the air with no idea to which direction you're headed. You only know the destination written on your boarding pass.


As we neared landing in Amsterdam Schiphol a feeling of familiarity welled up inside of me even if I've been there just twice prior to that moment. Looking out into the little buildings and the airport below I could hardly wait for the 'fasten seatbelt' sign to go off. And when I stepped inside the airport I felt that feeling all over again...I was a citizen of the world. I was no longer in my small bubble of Philippine comfort. I was in transit with all these other travelers from every corner of the world imaginable. After that profound thought came another: I have to buy stroopwafels.

After my purchase I proceeded to find a charging station for my Ipod. Once online I got to talk to a friend who was set to move to the U.S. while I was away on my trip. I wished him well and thought about how someday I'd like to do the same thing. I would love to live in another country for once in my life. But let's save that for another blog.


I went to the Newcastle waiting lounge after checking out the small museum at Schiphol. By that time the excitement had tripled as I thought of seeing my sister again and good old Guelder Road where her little flat was. I was hoping for sun but wasn't expecting much from British weather.


Once seated in the plane I discovered I had more legroom than usual and then saw I was near the emergency exit. The attendant explained the responsibility of being in that seat to me and my seatmate. When she was gone, the guy seated next to me said in a Geordie accent, 'You want to do it?', referring to opening the emergency exit. And I told him, 'Hopefully, I won't have to.' After that was an awkward silence which usually infiltrates small talk between strangers.


But my curiosity and newfound confidence (it seems to come out whenever I'm on trips) prompted me to ask him if he was from Newcastle. He answered that he was. I found out that his name was John and that he lived in NCL all his life. He had just come from a trip to Texas to visit friends. When he saw my passport he noticed that I had quite a few stamps and so I asked him which places in Europe he'd already visit. To my utter shock he said he hadn't explored his own continent yet. I felt like he was wasting an advantage that he was born with. He didn't need a visa and it wasn't that expensive to go around yet he hadn't done it. So I ended up telling him about my previous trips and the countries I had been to. It felt strange that I was selling his own continent to him. He had been to Asia once but that was basically the extent of his travel experiences. The talk went on until the plane had landed. It was a great way to start my trip to Newcastle, and what made it even better was the fact that the sun was shining! I was ecstatic.


But then came the dreaded immigration check. I have no worries except for one, which is the cause of my anxiety: my hands. They get really dry in cold weather and that makes my less readable prints even difficult to read on the machine. I had no problems except for that. So after rubbing my fingers on my chin or behind the ear (where there's bound to be some oil) I passed immigration check and proceeded to get my luggage.


I was surprised to see that John was waiting for me on the other side even after I spent quite a time at Immigration. I was so ready to go through the doors that say 'no return beyond this point' and thinking to myself, hey, i don't mind. My sister hadn't arrived yet but John's parents were already there to pick him up. I told him that he could go and I'll be alright and so we said our goodbyes. Soon after that I saw my sister walking to me and we both got so excited. I swear at some point we squealed like little kids in delight. I looked over to the side and saw John was still there with his parents. He saw that I was with my sister and I waved goodbye.


We got into the car and my sister right away relayed her story about how she forgot to pull up the handbrake and her car slowly rolled into another car (haha!) Luckily the damage wasn't that big. It was my first time to experience my sister's driving in the UK (she didn't have a car yet when I first went)and so a simple thing such as sitting on the left side was fascinating and disorienting to me at the same time. We chatted nonstop and I forgot how hungry I had gotten. I was at my destination and I was soooo happy. YES!!!

I looked around and was beaming at how familiar everything was. Oh, I remember that pub. Right, that was where we had Indian food. Hey, the Sainsbury's has gotten bigger. And when the car pulled up in front of the house, I felt I was home again.
When I went inside I immediately recognized that familiar smell, the smell that would stay in my suitcase and clothes until I go back to the Philippines. I was immediately introduced to my sister's Greek flatmate, Oz. He was very nice and friendly and I felt like I knew him well from all the stories my sister told me.

I sat down in the living room as my sister prepared my Indian lunch. It was already noon. I couldn't resist going on Facebook and putting a shoutout, of course making sure I added my location. As the sun's rays streamed through the window I couldn't help but take a look around. I was back. Almost a day ago when I got on that plane the adventure had already started and it was right before me. I couldn't wait to find out what would happen.

Bon appetit in France!

Being the foodie that I am, one of the things that made me really excited to go to France was the eats. But alas, four days wasn't enough. Still, I feel so lucky to have sampled the cuisine and would definitely go back in a heartbeat to eat more.

It's not hard to find good food in France. Communicating with the waiters and understanding the menu is another matter though. If you have difficulty just take the plat du jour, un boisson, and a dessert...if you can even pronounce those words correctly. =p Here are some of the things I was able to try during my Parisian vacay.

Pastries: Tarts, Croissants, Eclairs, & Pain au chocolat. The latter is bread that has the same texture as a croissant filled with what else? Chocolat! The French baker version here in the Philippines is quite good, but the ones (take note: I didn't just eat one) I tried in Paris were a bit flakier and the ambience makes them taste so much better. As for eclairs, the chocolate ones were one of my favorite breakfast items. Pastry for breakfast is simply the best. 

You can see from the photos below why Paris is the sweet tooth's dream. I think I just died and went to pastry heaven. Patisseries are everywhere!

 Above are pastries we bought at Versailles. We ate these after taking some jumpshots near the Arc de Triomphe. They're so dainty! Even the packaging is cute.

Crepe & Galette Provencal. Any trip to France wouldn't be complete without these. I had my first authentic crepe with nutella & bananas at Montmartre, set against the backdrop of the artists painting portraits. *sigh* 

The gallete provencal was lunch at a cafe in Versailles, and it was so good! Tomato sauce, ham, cheese and egg in a galette=perfect! My sister and I vowed we would go back there if given the chance.

Here's manong  making my crepe, me and my huge smile even before taking a bite, and the galette which is making my mouth water right now.

Macarons. Thin, circular merengue sandwiches with different fillings.We bought some from a patisserie near our hotel, if my memory serves me right. The delicate circles had the right sweetness with a lovely surprise in the middle.See photo above where I have coffee and pastries in front of me to get a glimpse of the tiny but mighty macaron.

Four-cheese pasta. The French love their cheese and with reason. Look at that entire section, devoted only to cheese! My four-cheese pasta was so delectable and creamy, yet it had just the right richness to it. It was just cheese and cream-no meat, no veggies, no nada. It was simple but amazing.

French onion soup. I didn't pass up the chance to try authentic French onion soup. On top of the hot, spicy , and sweet soup filled with caramelized onions was cheese melted over a big slice of crouton. Not for those who hate onions. Good thing I don't.

Steak. I have now a new standard for future steak dinners. Near the Centre Pompidou we had dinner at a cafe and I discovered what I now consider the best steak of my life. It was medium rare, had a smoky flavor, and it wasn't overly-seasoned. The steak made that restaurant unforgettable, as well as the loony old French man who kept talking to other people, us included.

Japanese food. Crazy, that's what you're thinking. You go to France and you eat Japanese food? My sister really wanted to since she hadn't eaten Jap in a long time. There was this area filled with Japanese and Chinese restos near the Palais Garnier where our Filipino appetites were satisfied by yummy evening fare at a tiny eatery with French-speaking Japanese servers. Kinda disorienting? It didn't matter especially when the delicious food came out and was served to us.

Mars Noir. I'm a sucker for everything dark chocolate. On our way to the Charles de Gaulle Airport we needed change for train tickets and bought Mars noir from a vendo. It was one of the snacks I had in my bag (Marks &Spencers thai curry crackers, French pick and mix candies, more French pastry, among many others) on the way to Barcelona. I love Mars but I love ze noir version even better. 

There are so many things I have yet to try and I really hope to go back to France someday. Just added to my long blog list that just keeps on growing: My culinary tour of Barcelona and London. I have so many things to share and remember but so little time. I'll be back soon.

A Day at the Museum (Liza Meets Mona Lisa)

To say I was excited about my visit to the Louvre is an understatement. Since I was a little girl I’ve loved museums and the Louvre was the ultimate. I’ve heard that you can’t fully explore it in a day but a few hours in the morning was all I had and I was happy with that. After a lovely pastry-laden breakfast (that’s another thing to blog about) I was off to the Louvre with my Ate Tess.

After getting our audio guides we went on to discover the different collections. It would’ve been easy to get sidetracked because of the many interesting things inside but the audioguide’s thematic trail kept us on track.

When I saw the Venus de Milo at the far end of a hallway, people clustering around her, I was reminded of a small replica we had in the living room when I was younger. Unlike our decor this one was a tall and powerful statue of a woman, standing in all her Greek glory, still so beautiful and ethereal though incomplete. The audioguide advised to take a look at Venus from different angles, making us understand certain details about it that can easily escape the viewer.

Atop a grand staircase was Nike or The Winged Victory of Samothrace, towering above everybody. It was a regal greeting to visitors who took the steps.

If I detailed every single masterpiece we saw, I would run out of words and space to describe how awe-inspiring they all are. I marveled at the paintings I never thought would come alive from the art and humanities books I’ve read in the past. There was so much to see and learn that we inched our way to the star of the Louvre. We were minutes away from the woman whose smile remains as mysterious as on the day she was made.

There was a huge crowd forming in the big hall where grand paintings covered the tall and wide walls. Everyone was edging to the far side where a big wall contained only one painting much smaller than the others in the room.  There she was, the Portrait of Lisa Gherardini more popularly known as the Mona Lisa. I slowly made my way to the front of the cord that separated me from the painting. I took a good look at the woman in the frame. I wish I could say that she looked more stunning in person but of course she looked exactly like the photos in books. My anticipation somehow made me expect that. But as I looked at the colors, the lines, the whole picture, I realized the difference I was looking for-a sense of history, and that was what I got. It felt different to see a work of art the whole world knows, to have before me a creation by a genius who was ahead of his time. I had a piece of time frozen before me not just with the Mona Lisa but with every single object that had a story in that museum.

Latest info on Mona Lisa: French scientists crack secrets of Mona Lisa

If I lived in Paris, I’d probably spend every weekend exploring a different part of the Louvre. I had seen only a fraction of the numerous collections they had inside and enjoyed every bit of the experience. Maybe someday I’ll go back, walk the museum halls, and discover more ancient stories that only the artifacts can tell. 

My First Paella

After several days in London and Paris it was just a matter of time until my craving for rice kicked in. So even if I was quite anxious (okay, I was VERY anxious) about my solo trip to Barcelona, I looked forward to being in Spain so that I could have a wonderful rice meal. Paella, here I come! On my first day I spent the whole morning walking to the different Gaudi houses and exploring the interesting principles behind his fascinating architecture. The hustle and bustle of La Rambla took me in but unfortunately the Mercat la Boqueria was closed. That meant I was to explore its culinary delights the next day. But I didn’t leave empty-handed because the streets were lined with really pretty accessories. I took a city tour bus and hopped off at the sight of a stretch of white sandy beach dotted with people. Barceloneta was undoubtedly my kind of place-. I sat by the beach and believe it or not, enjoyed basking in the sun in comfy 15-degree temperature, in my boots and thick coat. =) I was so tempted to dig my toes into the sand if only I hadn’t worn stockings. The girl beside me eating takeout reminded me that I had yet to take my lunch and it was already 2:00P.M. so I strolled along the al fresco restaurants to sample authentic Spanish cuisine for the first time. The first restaurant I approached I asked the waitress if the paella was good for how many people and she answered by saying, ‘It’s good’. Okay, I think my Spanish flew out of the window due to hunger and I didn’t want to try and cross the language barrier so I moved on. As I walked along I saw this nondescript restaurant and studied the menu outside when their waiter greeted me in English. Ah, it was just music to my ears. I immediately entered and asked which of the tapas he could recommend and he pointed out this item which meant battered baby squid. Anything deep-friend sounds good to me so I had that and of course, I took the chance to get a paella. While waiting I watched these two frail, old women who just received their order. I was immediately alarmed upon seeing this gigantic 15-inch dish filled to the brim with paella! I hoped to God my order was a whole lot smaller than that. Before my hunger got the best of me my battered baby squid arrived. It looked very promising and I took a whiff as I squeezed a lemon wedge over the dish. As I took a bite, I tasted the sea and the salt was sprinkled over the teeny tiny fried squid was just enough. It was delicious! If only I had someone with me, I would be able to exclaim how fresh the squid tasted. I kept on eating squid after squid after squid until my paella arrived. Fortunately, I didn’t get the humongous dish the old women got; I received a 12-inch pan! Oh. My. Goodness. But since I was so hungry and excited to try this popular dish I wasted no time and dug in. It was just a taste of heaven, especially after days of not eating rice. The rice was al dente, and the ingredients were cooked just right. I ate the rice until my stomach couldn’t take it anymore and then I proceeded to pick out the remaining tender chicken and assortment of fresh seafood (mussels, shrimp, fish, squid). Everything was so fresh and it made sense because I was eating by the sea. It was a lovely experience. Not bad for my first Spanish meal…not bad at all. As I got my bill and paid at the counter the kind waiter chatted me up a bit and asked me where I was from and if I enjoyed my lunch. I responded enthusiastically and rightfully so after that fantastic meal. I headed out the door, ready and full of energy to explore the city once again, looking forward to the great meal I was about to experience next.